Andrew Coimbra AW15

Mon dieu. Winter decided to not show up this year and global warming is scaring the shit out of me. Like are you fucking serious?! Especially when you can’t wear winter gear like e.g. Andrew Coimbra.

Andrew Coimbra, currently living in Toronto, Canada, began his career in Fashion Design by studying Material Art & Design at the Ontario College of Art & Design University before moving onto The School of Fashion Studies at George Brown College. Experience working with prominent Canadian designers Pink Tartan and Philip Sparks proved to be a solid base for his enriching internship with internationally renowned label Proenza Schouler, in New York City.

Andrew defines his aesthetic as cool, refined ease. Strengthened by inspiration drawn from contemporary art and youth culture, combined with an emphasis on tailoring and a focus on fine fabrics, his work offers a new approach to the world of menswear.
For the Fall 2015 collection – titled “sorry, not sorry: a Canadian dilemma” – Andrew wanted to explore the subtleties of the Canadian social and physical landscape, using aerial perspectives of icebergs, extreme cold weather mapping patterns, and our notorious use of the word “sorry” as major sources of influence. The playful prints are contrasted with slick fabric choices, and an almost military-meets-thug aesthetic, ushering in a fresh, new attitude; a Canadian confidence. Check FW 15 here:
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Pictures via Andrew Coimbra
Photography: Patrick Lacsina – Styling: Nadia Pizziment- Grooming: Lauren Fisher – Model: William (Elite)

8CUFF

8CUFF is a menswear brand based in Hong Kong and Shanghai, the label is targeting sport-lux street wear brand, inspired by social issues. And I honestly think that I have blogged about the same collection like last year. And to be up on this blog for a second time is proof that after all these weeks the FW15 collection is still brilliant and is able to fascinate me for a second time around. Tbh I just think that either a couple of looks were added to FW15 (which is not a bad thing at all) or I didn’t do my research correct (which is probably the actual reason for wrtiting about 8CUFF again).

However 8CUFF creates uncompromising visuals from found image and the designers own paintings on the subject “Corruption” structured symmetrical shapes form the sport-lux street wear collection. Take a look:
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Pictures via 8CUFF
Model : Eryk Syzmański, Yang Hoon – Photographer: Egill Bjarki – Make up : Linda Face Slap – Hair styling : Tim Wong BTW- Workshop – Styling : Laeticia. E

Bodybound AW15

BODYBOUND is a new menswear brand, which captures the youthful irreverence of London with a spirit of ingenuity. Their punk approach to menswear combines innovative technical fabrics, and engineered knitwear, with a futuristic sensibility. The label was launched in 2012, after the designers Kim and Pliny, were selected by Yohji Yamamoto as finalists of the prestigious Hyeres Awards.

Kim graduated from Central Saint Martins in 2005 prior to cutting his teeth at Alexander McQueen. After two years in the industry he returned to study an MA in Menswear at the Royal College of Art. Subsequently working for brands including Ermenegildo Zegna, Halston, and most recently as the Menswear designer for Matthew Williamson. Pliny, trained as a photographer in New York and London; he brings a honed graphic sensitivity to the collections. BODYBOUND is a futuristic offering of modern luxury menswear.

BODYBOUND’s Autumn/Winter’15 Collection challenges the limits of masculine ambition. It collapses the distinction between bodily athleticism and evolutionary robotics: streamlined silhouettes meet muscle-bound harnesses. This season, appliquéd calf leather, crotchet fabric and nylons join BODYBOUND’s signature knitwear designs in colours of the elements: cobalt, magnesium, nickel and neon.
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Pictures via Bodybound.net

Kilian Kerner

Kilian Kerner, a German fashion designer who established his label as one of the “big ones” in the German fashion scene with a specific  look which can range from glamorous to progressive urban. While everybody’s FW15 collection was super winter-ish (which of course makes sense), with darker colors and a lot of black, Mr. Kilian Kerner put black in the background and left a quite colorful impression. Print mixes and bright colors were paired with a very urban look.
The collection was cool, but what overshadowed the event was the organization. I might risk not getting any invites anymore for any Kilian Kerner show, but seriously get your shit together. Stop giving front row seats away just because you don’t have time and can’t cope to check everybodys name on the list. Respect the hierarchy. Actually my problem was just: don’t fuck with my seating. And it’s sad that I have to put this up and sound like an ungrateful motherfucker when the the collection was  really fun and I enjoyed being there. But such is life….

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Odeur at MBFWB

When I applied for the ODEUR FW15 show I knew that this one is going to be good. It was my instant feedback system saying Swedish designers can’t do no wrong. And I know I shouldn’t be stereotyping, especially when it comes to fashion, but…hey…fuck it. My instinct was super right.

ODEUR was founded in Stockholm in 2006 as a brand experiment, using a specific white, light and clean scent instead of a visual logotype to label the graphic and dramatic, yet playful garments. The first collection included a few t-shirt styles that where distributed amongst a few initial clients in Sweden and Japan.

Today ODEUR is designed by Petter Hollström and Gorjan Lauseger and has spread to over 20 countries, selling jeans, outerwear, accessories and fashion clothing. Amongst others the collections are represented at Harvey Nichols in Hong Kong, Temporary Showroom in Berlin and Oki-Ni in London. And for this season made it’s way to Berlin Fashion Week:
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Ivanman

Berlin. Berlin. Berlin.
A fashion week that is not relevant and at the same time not irrelevant. It’s just stuck in the middle (and every business/economy student knows that this is the worst position ever) and I think I am going to make a marketing plan to make it more attractive to the international fashion scene. although MBFWB is in it’s core super international. And labels like IVANMAN make me not want to give up on this certain week. The designer Ivan Mandzukic (in case the label name IVANMAN didn’t make sense to you, now it should) is bringing colourblocking into FW15 and I like the fact he is giving his style, which is more on the classical look kind of side, a more colorful twist.  And I feel like with the color orange he is in tune with the FW15 times.  See yourself:

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