Returning to my home away from home soon. And with home I mean New York City. The city I used to live in and will never be forget. That’s why I had to bring some New York flavor to this blog.
ECKHAUS LATTA is a New York based fashion label designed and executed by Mike Eckhaus and Zoe Latta. The two met while attending the Rhode Island School of Design, where they studied Sculpture and Textile Design, respectively. After graduating (BFA 2010), they designed and worked with many labels, artists and institutions including Marc Jacobs, Proenza Schouler, Matthew Barney, Opening Ceremony, The Ratti Textile Center at the Metropolitan Museum of Art and threeASFOUR. Together in 2011, Mike and Zoe founded ECKHAUS LATTA.
The Designers release collections semi-annually during NYFW. In addition to their shows and presentations, Eckhaus Latta produces videos with the director Alexa Karolinski to further contextualize their collections. The brand has also participated in various artists collaborations including: designing uniforms for Dora Budor’s piece at the 55th Venice Biennale, an edition of Deodorant with the trend-forecasting agency K-HOLE supported by Kraupa-Tuskany Zeidler Gallery in Berlin, a collection for Bjarne Melgaard’s show at Gavin Brown’s Enterprise and outfits for Xavier Cha’s Fruit Machine at the New Museum. This past summer their work was included in the Museum of Art and Design’s NYC Makers Biennial and they will be premiering their SS15 collection video at MOCA in January.
My stalking skills reached another level when I found out about Mario VijackicAW15 on Instagram. Wait… let me put this straight: Actually I didn’t stalk anyone, but the campaign pictures showed up on pictures that people you follow liked. So I am dedicating this post to Instagram, because otherwise this post would never happen.
However let’s talk about the important stuff: Inspired by minimal paintings, especially by Jan Schoonhoven, the young Croatian Fashion Designer Mario Vijackic presents his news AW15 collection. His acromatic, textured paintings, sterile with hard edge cuts were mostly made with the multiplication of one basic element. In addition to the minimalist Schoonhoven, the designer explored the Icelandic ice caves and phenomenon of global warming.
Sculptural approach in design, over-sized silouette, high-tech fabrics, mash and other polymers combined with wool and cotton knitwear, interesting new garment construction solutions, the mixture of roughly shaped and and plastic forms with feminine cuts and cold, almost acromatic colours with a touch of a hidden sex-appeal are one of the main characteristics of a designers collection.
Mario Vijackic takes us, on his own way, on a certain trip to the future; with an obvious futuristic impression designer created clothes for a person that is daring and open for the technological development of a human civilisation.
With a touch of criticism designer shows off the problematic of global warming, with a touch of clinical and sterile aesthetics, interesting headpieces with vizors and the presentation of a collection, designer in a sophisticated way brings the collection as the coherent and compact piece. Unusual height of Maja Matkovic, sophisticated and calm impression of Jelena Matas were the perfect fit in a designers vision of a contemporary woman. Pictures via Mario Vijackic Photographer & Retoucher: Srecko Rundic, Designer: Mario Vijackic, Models: Maja Matkovic @ Midikenn Models Management & Jelena Matas @ Talia Models, Makeup: Petra Sever, Hair: Nada Orsag, Assistants: Adam Llewellin & Marta Eva Jurin
The internet is the place to be. Has been for years now, still is and probably will be forever and ever. And I am kinda sad to say this, but everything happens on the internet first, before it’s in Vogue or in the streets. Why? Because the internet is the shit. And Raun LaRose already knows, that’s probably why his SS15 collection is named “Because of the internet”.
He explains: “The internet allows us to indulge every aspect of our personality. We are constantly exposed to new ideas, conversations and people. It allows us to create identites and indulge in both ends of the spectrum all at once. Attuned to what is good about it, what is bad, simply how IT IS. We ARE in this moment.”
He continues: “A sense of isolation is channeled into the deconstruction of unfamiliar cuts and shapes, while unity channeled more familiar colors and silhouettes. The freedom and warmth of constant communication translated into more relaxed silhouettes. Experimenting with denim and canvas screen-printing for the first time represented my thought on consumption.” And I absolutely adore this collection. Pictures via Raun LaRose
Casely-Hayford‘s SS16 collection during LCM proved to me again that the fashion business is such a small world. Like for example the models: you see them from season to season, from one city to another, to a point where you feel like you really know the models, because you literally see them during a show, on a magazine cover, at the after party, a blog, here and there. And this is what happens with so many people and I wonder if they think the same about me (probably they don’t and 0 fux are given).
However let’s focus on the fashion again. The Casely-Hayford ethos represents a unique expression of freedom created when conformity threatens identity, or convention restricts spontaneity; the brand fuses this expression of the free spirit with the very particular gestures of English sartorialism. The House aims to distil a multitude of ideas into a simple pure entity: innovation through tradition. And that’s what they also did with SS16.
Joe Casely-Hayford OBE has a career which reflects the progress of menswear. Early in his career Joe dressed the Clash and U2 whilst simultaneously working on his eponymous brand for men and women – showing on the runways of Paris, Tokyo and London. More recently, taking on the role of Creative Director of Gieves & Hawkes, Joe contributed to the re-positioning of the 200 year Old Savile Row house, known for dressing members of the establishment. Before studying at Saint Martin’s, Charlie apprenticed in his father’s studio from a young age, learning design, menswear history and technical skills. He began to work in fashion from the age of 21, having styled musicians ranging from the UK’s XX to American hip-hop artist Nas. The brand now has as international following that ranges from musicians Mos Def and Drake to actors Robert Downey Jnr and Michael Fassbender. Sold in exclusive boutiques around the world, the Casely-Hayford House is undeniably forging a new handwriting of modern English style.
Turbo Yulia was named one of the best Russian brands and I had make sure that this is true.
The designer behind the brand Yulia is based in Moscow, Russia. She studied at St. Petersburg University Of Service And Economics and graduated in 2010. Her collections are produced in Russia.Graduated from St.-Petersburg University of technology & design. Moved Moscow and established own studio in 2010. Made some capsule collections, dresses for scene, circus and perfomances inspired by futurism and artificial digital reality Yulia combines art and fashion. Her collections are inspired by futurism and artificial digital reality.
Highsnobity writes: “Headed up by Yulia Makarova, avant garde futurist brand Turbo Yulia aim to merge art and fashion with each collection. Navigating through the brand’s bizarre aesthetic, one shouldn’t be surprised to find aerodynamic helmets, iridescent holographic textile, or vivid prints of horses and girls. Since the brand was instituted in 2010, Turbo Yulia has not only delivered seasonal collections, but has also contributed bespoke pieces for theatre and circus performances.” And with her AW13 pieces she has proven that she deserves to be named to be one of the best Russian brands. Pictres via Turbo Yulia Foto: Maria Yastrebova (BIRDDIE), Models: Kolia Molochniy, Katia Yastrebova, Kolia Paystov, Кsenia Dranish, Maria Bel, Make up: Nika Kisliak
Real Talk: if you haven’t heard about designer Kim Shui yet, you definitely did something wrong in your life. And in your case I would do some major thinking about priorities and what’s important in life (just kidding tho).
But in case you really haven’t heard about Kim Shui, here is a short bio: Kim Shui was born in the US, and raised in Rome, Italy. She graduated from Duke University with a double major in Economics and French before pursuing Fashion Design at Parsons and Central St. Martins graduating with Distinction. Her concept collections are one of a kind, but with her Ready-To-Wear MOMENTUM collection she is ready to take the fashion world.
Culminating in a series of richly textural designs, Kim Shui embarks on an investigation into transitional pace, exploring the daily rise and fall in physical momentum for SS15. Examining movement in relation to the feminine form through the mimicry of motion that is evident in the juxtaposition of silhouette throughout the collection. Pairing rigid panels of shimmering silver lamé with the voluminous peaks and folds of dense black ruffles and orbital shoulder strap detailing to create a sports-luxe aesthetic that appears constantly in motion, even when stagnant.